CHAMBA RUMAL EMBROIDERY PDF
May 30, Chamba embroidery designs were based on nature, mythology, gave birth to an intricate form of needlework known as the Chamba Rumal. Explore ANTARA’s board “CHAMBA RUMAL” on Pinterest. | See more ideas about Embroidery patterns, Textile design and Textiles. Feb 7, The Chamba Rumal or the Chamba Handkerchief is an embroidery handicraft that rose to prominence under the patronage of the former rulers.
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The cloth employed for the embroidery was generally unbleached muslin or khaddar. The drawing was drawn in outlines with fine brush by the accomplished pahari painters sometimes,the female embroiders would pre- fer to draw the patterns and figures themselves. This resulted in two different styles one elegant and fine in draughtmanship and the other one some what coarse and bold in treatment. Thus,the image of miniature paintings were translated into kashidakari embroiderywhich took the pride of becoming the celebrated feminine craft tradition of Chamba.
The pictorial handicraft of Chamba possesses distinct characteristic of its own, which differentiates it from other forms of embroideries in India. In Mandi, Suket and Bilaspur, the type of embroidery was different from the style prevalent in Chamba In these former states the embroi- dered rumals with floral and bird motifs were called hathapura,used for giving present during marriages. The artistic activity of Chamba rumal survived and practiced only in old Chamba state where painters continued to work even up to the present time.
Wom -en of the royal house or the wife of the nobles used to embroider the well composed rumal in the leisure hours as a pastime activity. The use of mill made cloth is noticed in the Chamba rumals of late nineteenth century This fabric was brought to Chamba from Punjab by the itinerant traders of Sukho — Chak town Tehsil Shakargarh district Gurdaspur, now in Pakistan.
Craft production process The process of creating a Chamba Rumal involves the following steps:. The stitch used in embroidering the Chamba Rumal was the do-rukhaa double — satin stitchwhich as its name implies, can be viewed from two do sides or aspects rukh. The stitch is carried both backward and forward and covers both sides of the clotheffecting a smooth finish that is flat and looks like colours filled into a miniature painting.
No knots are visible, and the embroidered rumal can be viewed from both sides. It thus becomes reversible. A simple stem-stitch using black silk thread is used to out -line the figures. Other stitches like the cross stitch, the button — hole stitch, the long and short stitch, and the herring-bone stitch,as well as pattern darning,were also used occasionally. Embroidery is usually a decorative stitching mostly done with fine needles on the fabrics ; the craft of embroidery has been practised in the different part of India having distinct style,though the basic stitche is almost the same everywhere.
This stitch is placed closely and sid -e by side brings out such extraordinary effect that the em -broidery comes out strikingly identical on both the sides of the rumals do-rukha.
Chamba Rumal | Chamba Rumal
Figurative forms animal and birds have also been requen -tly used in chamba rumals. These designs and motifs we -re drawn by the pahari painters themselves,whereas the folkish designs, in which the figures bear small rounded faces like parrot beaks, seem to have been drawn on their own by the women embroiders. Chamba rumals are usually a pictorial representation of the compositions borrowed from the pahari miniatures of Chamba and Kangra school and wonderfully embroidered in silken on the surface of the cotton fabric.
The style and pictorial quality of the drawings of rumals apparently indicate the dating of the embroidered works.
15 best CHAMBA RUMAL images on Pinterest | Embroidery patterns, Textile design and Textiles
The outline in black thread is a marked characteristic, which is a conspicuous characteristic of the chamba rumal. After filling the colourful threads in the figures and floral designsthese are finally enclose with a fine line worked out in black threadwhich apparently lends the powerful affect as seen in pahari miniature painting.
The line drawing in pahari painting is very important part as the pictures are finished by the fine and sensitive outlines after the filling of the colours.
Similarly in the case of the Chamba rumalsafter the figures are filled up with silken threads of different hues,the chajba effect is achieved thro- ugh fine outlines done in black thread in dandi tanka the stem stitch, which is also its most conspicuous feature. The drawing depicts the stages of Dandi Chambba stitches. The use of criss cross stitcheswhich comprise a simple technique of crossing two stitches of equal size in the shape of a cross X can be discerned in several rumals.
This stitch as a unit comprises a running band mostly in red colourarrayed usually in straight or circular line identically visible on the both sides of the fabric. This criss — cross stitch is no longer practiced by any contemporary embroider in Chamba. Motifs Chamba rumals are embellished with vivid decorat -ive motifs and designs, embtoidery are the inseparable part of this pictorial handicraft.
These motifs and designs are used and laid carefully as fillers in the blank passive space of the compositions cjamba the rumals. For instance, the motifs such as birds and animals, decorative plants and shrubs displaying a considerable variety, are seen invariably in several of rumals. Animal works is seen mostly in the subjects depicti -ng hunting expeditions in embroidrey horses and eleph- ant riders are shown hunting the wild boars, deer, leopards, tigers and lions, cows with their calves are also skilfully rendered in the rumals showing Krishna legend.
A great variety of buti embroodery phul patterns are skilfully used as filler in the intervening blank space of the fabric by the painters. The space of rumals is in variably detailed with variations of trees,shrubs, decorative plants and phulpatti designs.
Cypress trees with some variations have been used as an important decorative motif by the painters to beautify the compositions of the rumals. Hence, Subjects like wedding scen- es were popular and were repeatedly embroidered. The rumal was considered one of the essential item of dowry of the chambw who learnt this craft at a very young age. This handicraftbeing an important item of the dowry, was dependent for its existence almost on the social custom i.
No marr- iage ceremony would be reckoned complete without the gift of Chamba rumal by the relatives of the brides. It was considered and additional merit if the brides were well versed in the craft of embroidery.
On wed- ding or other important occasionsthese rumals were worn both by men and women who hung them proudly on their shoulders. People of every class,rich or poor, high or low produced these rumals in some form or another, whereas the elite class preferred more beautiful and intricate designs. A Miniature Painting Artist making a design on a fabric with brush, in black ink.
The drawings of the Chamba rumals were never traced; rather they were done in a swish without breaking the line.
So dexterous were the hands of the Pahari Painters, who drew with brush either in black or sanguine colour on the fabric. The traces of drawings can be noticed in some rumals where the silken threads have been flaked off. Painters were embroideey invariably imparting suggestions to the female embroider regarding the palette of silk threads to be employed. Chamba Rumals of the later period have come to the notices, which are hurriedly drawn but using wooden block prints. The color palette of the Miniature Painting Artist used for the outlines of motifs.
February 7, at 2: This is absolutely lovely! Both the Chamba rumal itself and the way you have documented and presented it. I feel pained that the true value of this art is not appreciated. Even this website seems to have hardly been seen by people.
I would seriously like to work with the group of people who have done embroideey project to see if we can bring these beautiful rumals back into fashion. March 12, at 5: You are commenting using your WordPress.
You chamha commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Elopment of rukmani,Chamba A. Vishnu and Laxmi seated on garuda, Early Chamba Painting. Miniature painting inspired Chamba rumal. Drawing of the outline done by the pahari painters. Coarse and rough outlines drawn by female embroiders. Floral and Bird motifs called Hathapura. Floral motifs used during marriages. Suman,a chamba rumal artist at Rang Mahal.
Women working on chamba rumal at the NGO. Silk floss from the early 20th century. Brushes used for making the outlines.
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